18 pop-up chef «But the exceptional feat, believe me, is being normal²» is the translation of the verse of the song that Lucio Dalla desperatelyerotically [that’s its title, Desperate Erotic Stomp] is singing out of my car radio, prophetic as he has always been, but as I still had no awareness, with regard to the experience I am going to have tonight. It is 9:00 pm, and I'm directed to the excellence chosen for this issue of Ossigeno. I'm going daGorini. First Star gained for the 2020 Michelin Guide, Exploit of the year for the 2019 Espresso Guide and Best Chef for the 2019 Identità Golose Guide are only the most recent, among all the window stickers and certificates of merit obtained in a career so young and so lightning. The deep heart of the experience that Gianluca Gorini Gianluca Gorini wanted to create is here, in this place where preparation is just the ultimate expression of a life even made of hazards. Among all, the one that led him to take the reins of a historic place like the Locanda del Gambero Rosso, in an X district of an X Italian thermal town, changing its name to lift it from a drift in which it had fallen in recent years, once the historic management ceased, rethinking from scratch its philosophy. Because it is philosophy what we are talking about, when you are able to colour the normality of situationist relativism and to understand, in total countertendency, that this normality could be connected to a project of life full of talent, unique, and therefore exceptional. It was 2017 when the feat was achieved. The cliché of places where time seems to be paused lies in here. The bars downtown compete for entertainment, and it is not uncommon to come across a concert by one of the bands revolving around the native Soundido record collective. In this place where the word slow is too short to give an idea, a formation of weird musicians named Supermarket has succeeded in turning an autochthonous folk made of clarinets, trumpets, trombones and sax into world music. Coincidences. «I play the trombone - Gorini confides - or rather, I played it when I had time». Coincidences. This is the frame in which Gorini decided to settle, creating an experience capable of attracting not only the diehards of the metropolis, but also a red carpet of colleagues with international experience - to name just the last ones in order of time, Moreno Cedroni Moreno Cedroni and Mauro Uliassi Mauro Uliassi. He, who in the morning goes to walk in the surrounding woods «to regenerate the mental freshness, because the journey always starts in the head». He, who from Pesaro has also moved to London - telling amused when, in his apprenticeship at a French bistro, his Algerian glass-eyed chef de partie inveighed against anyone, his hand stuck on the embers of charcoal - talks about his choice in total countertrend for those who thought that he was crazy, with such a talent, to decentralize his experience with respect to circuits within which communication is much more easily in the spotlight. He speaks about it like a life choice. A quality of life quality of life choice. Born into art, if we can say so. His mom and aunt ran an old-fashioned trattoria, where reviews about the dishes can be read in the parking lot, counting the pile of trucks packed out. «In general, I take inspiration from my experience. Cooking, but I think it is also true in every creative process, means materializing your thoughts, and it is natural for it to be the summary
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