Ossigeno #6

19 pop-up chef of your experience. Indeed, if not, it would not be true. How might thought be so, if it is not born from within you, from something that you have perceived and kept in your memory?». The very first memories that the chef shares are those of the gestures seen over and over again between the dining room and the kitchen of that trattoria, its scents, its colors. «Then - he points out - it is quite clear that today every reference must be filtered by competence». A competence already become recognizable authorship authorship, with a major newspaper the likes of La Repubblica defining him, no half measures, «one of the strongest talents in the ranks of the second generation of New Italian Cuisine», and the restaurant of which he is chef patron «a polite punch in the belly of a Romagna dining traditionally not so inclined to avant-garde strings³». Close to his country of origin there is Pesaro and the sea, spoilt for choice for those who, like Gorini, want to work their way up during the summer. Then, horizons became broader. And it is his stay, from 2003 to 2008, with starred chef Paolo Teverini, his mentor and Maestro together with Paolo Lopriore Paolo Lopriore, that marked the way towards the Savio valley. The former Locanda del Gambero Rosso was a historical venue of tradition, what Gorini calls «memory cuisine», but the creations that now come out of his kitchen to reach the tables of his guests definitely turn past into future. «If you look at the dishes and then take a look around, you will see the same things: the genuineness of this place is striking and it reflects the way I conceive my work, with the raw matter at the center of everything, without buttering up or struggling to appease any chef’s ego». To put it in a musical way, remembering those moments when time to play abounded, Gorini’s creations play «funky, jazz, rhythm and blues notes, where the sentimental side is important too. The sheet music is present, but it is not written. Because you got it in you». So, let’s give it up for the freedom of performing; in the line-up of the evening, accompanied by a very interesting cellar managed by another leading name the likes of Mauro Donatiello Mauro Donatiello, intro is that of a cold tomato cream with almond extract, cold tomato cream with almond extract, grapefruit, ricotta and olives. Minutes flow, the jam-session continues: risotto cooked in mushroom and tobacco broth. risotto cooked in mushroom and tobacco broth. Grilled pigeon with bay leaf extract: «thanks to this - he tells me with a touch of pride - people come from all over Italy». And they are right, because these are authentic signature dishes signature dishes. «The difference today lies in the ability to build an authentic, credible story, able to transmit a profound cultural experience, to tell who we are and what our taste is». He, who would prepare a panzanella to �ueen Elizabeth. He, whose biggest regret is not at all that of having abandoned the world capitals of the gourmet circuit, but that of not having been able to take part - for purely registry reasons, considering that he was born in 1983 - at Bob Marley's concert in 1980 in San Siro Bob Marley's concert in 1980 in San Siro. He who, together with his life companion Sara, was able to match the countertrend with a successful life project, managing to make it fit within the norm. Or rather: within the exceptionality of the norm exceptionality of the norm. ² «Ma l’impresa eccezionale, dammi retta, è l’essere normale» Lucio Dalla, Disperato Erotico Stomp, 1977 ³ Enzo e Paolo Vizzari, Gianluca Gorini, una cucina tra azzardi [riusciti] e carezze [non banali], La Repubblica-Sapori, 2018/05/28

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